In the media’s eyes, Hedi Slimane’s first two years at Saint Laurent have not gone smoothly. First, there was the Cathy Horyn thing. Then, there was the Colette thing. But let’s move beyond what the one percent are buying, and look at the house of Saint Laurent from a more holistic perspective. Those $1,290 star-printed mohair sweaters may very well be selling out, but that’s also because there aren’t very many of them being made. But Slimane has also had his fair share of press hits. And not of the superficial kind. In October, Fashionista reported that several pieces of his Fall collection were already sold out at retailers including Net-a-Porter and Saks. It was a repeat of a hot Spring story, in which the New York Times spoke to several buyers who were bullish on Slimane’s work.
Fake bags are a different story. There are lots and lots of those. And the Hedi Slimane-designed styles are developing a cultish following among fashion insiders. Editors and buyers with a certain “I used to be a grunge goddess when grunge was actually a thing” aesthetic are carrying the understated duffle bags. (The Cut’s Stella Bugbee and our very own Stephanie Trong come to mind.) And the shoes are popular, too. After an exhaustive survey of the Chelsea-boots market, I decided that the Blake was worth the $855 because it was exactly what I wanted.While searching for a pair of Chelsea boots this fall, I became fixated on Saint Laurent’s “Blake” style, which were slim and narrow and had no bells or whistles to speak of. There was something with every other pair that was just not right: either the sole was too wide, or the leather felt junky, or there was some silly branding that ruined an otherwise respectable shoe. These, on the other hand, were perfect. The Blake is currently sold out on YSL.com.
Other Slimane best-sellers include the “Paris”, a classic pump available in multiple colors, materials and heights that starts at $625, and the “Janis”, a platform pump that starts at $775. Back to the fake bags: Unsurprisingly, the “Sac de Jour” — a familiarly shaped handle replica bag — and the “Classic Duffle” — with a name that’s self explanatory — are selling best replica bag.
And it’s not just fashion-types who are buying these things. In the first half of the year, Saint Laurent did $255 million in sales; that’s $32 million more than the first half of the last year, and $103 million more than the first half of the next. In addition, the stuff is making a mark. Particularly the accessories, which are the cornerstone of any luxury fashion business. “[Slimane] has cultivated a new customer that perhaps did not exist before under the YSL label,” says Roopal Patel, a fashion consultant. “He’s revitalized brand interest on so many levels.”
The house has also handled the phasing out of (and holding on to) its former hits incredibly well. The “Muse” — a mid-naughties relic of a handbag — is nowhere to be found on the site. The style is currently available in 23 different versions on the brand’s own e-commerce site, but all the way at the bottom of the shoe page. At the top are a variety of boots including the “Wyatt” style, a Chelsea boot with a modest heel that is available to both men and women. The Wyatt starts at $995 in suede and goes up to $2,395 for python.But the “Tribute” platform sandal is still very much there. As “over” as the Tribute might feel, it is still a popular shoe. And Saint Laurent has been smart about the way it’s positioned.
But what is it exactly about Hedi Slimane’s work at Saint Laurent that is drawing people in? Maybe it’s that Slimane is not creating anything new. Instead, he’s making the best version of things he already knows people like. It’s an innovative strategy because its main component is common sense. “There’s not too much fuss within that perfect shoe,” Patel says. “And that’s clearly working.”